Set in an oasis of Mopane trees with a backdrop of towering, granite ‘Koppies,’ Malansrus is situated in the perfect place for an adventure into Namibia’s Damaraland. Our group of four adventurous ‘oldies’ was desperate to find desert-adapted elephants in the wild and Malansrus was to be our starting point.

Meaning ‘Malan’s rest,’ the site has been developed from an old farmstead originally owned by a pioneering Afrikaner family. They chose this spot on the Aba Huab River for its abundance of trees and river location in the Twyfelfontein area.

Today, Malansrus is still a startling contrast to the desert landscape of Damaraland, but now features nine private, en-suite luxury tents scattered among the trees, along with a central area boasting a swimming pool, bar, dining space, and fire pit. One of the specialities of modern day Malansrus camp is their half day game drives in search of the sometimes-elusive elephants.

On arrival at the camp, we were greeted by the staff singing our welcome and offering refreshing cold towels and a traditional, cooling drink. After the initial greeting, all members of the staff gave us an explanation of their roles with a delightful charm and humour. Peter was to be our elephant guide and with his flashing smile he explained our game drive, which was to start at 07:30 sharp the following morning.

After an amazing evening with fine dining and star gazing, followed by a nightcap of Amarula, we all settled into our luxurious, spacious beds with crisp cotton sheets and slept well with the anticipation of tomorrow’s great adventure.

Following our hearty, full English breakfast, we gathered our belongings - cameras, phones, sunscreen - and boarded our open-sided, three-tiered 4x4 safari vehicle for our exploration into the heart of Damaraland. Leaving the forest of Mopane trees behind us we entered the great, granite kop-filled plains following a well-worn track in the comfort of our vehicle.

Approximately two hours of driving followed as we were enthralled by the raw cinematic landscape where red rock outcrops rise out of the ancient landscape, creating long shadows across the dry plain and riverbed. This year was greener than most, giving a fresher feel to the vegetation and creating stark contrasts with the red and the green.

The incredible drive through that landscape was an adventure in itself, but suddenly our guide’s mood changed from his insightful running commentary pointing out interesting plants, birds and animals; he’d sensed elephants in the vicinity. The momentum steps up a gear, and we suddenly leave the safety of the ‘main’ road and go hurtling off into the bush.

With Peter at the helm, expertly dodging between the clumps of low bushes and trees, we find ourselves clinging on to the sides of our seats and the handrail in front - all of us with a determination that we would soon see a familiar grey shape loom up out of the foliage. The ducking and diving seem to go on for a while as the excitement builds up with so many false alarms - it’s just a boulder or a large tree stump, and then suddenly, out of nowhere, a herd of thirteen elephants moves with that quiet, determined grace through the bush.

Not so much grey as we’d imagined, but more a light brown ochre as the dust they created in their wake clings to their wrinkly skin. A large matriarch leads, tusks curved and magnificent, her ears gently fanning. Behind her, two calves stay close to their mothers while the rest of the herd lumber on behind, occasionally detouring to break off some leaf-heavy branches or scratch at the dusty ground.

Peter’s voice is now a hushed and reverential tone as he expertly explains the hierarchy of the herd and their complex relationships. He knows this herd. Some of the characters in this group have been given names. The baby that we’re all desperately trying to photograph is called Olivia, and she keeps disappearing between her mother’s legs as she is shielded from our prying eyes.

Our guide is now attempting to get enough safe distance between us and the herd so that we can take stock and enjoy the spectacle without disturbing nature. The truck engine is switched off and we’re left with only the sounds of branches crackling under heavy feet, the rustling of rough skin against the trees and the soft but deliberate breathing and occasional trumpeting of these magnificent beasts. Time seems to stand still - all four of us are speechless, taking in this incredible sight and trying to capture it on our phones and cameras.

The sight is truly mesmerising, and no one wants to break the spell, but just as quickly as they appeared, they slowly melt off back into the bush and we are left to reflect on the sight we have just witnessed. Our driver carefully manoeuvres the vehicle, and we find ourselves ahead of the herd once again for another encounter with these majestic pachyderms.

We followed the elephants at a respectable distance for a while, enchanted by their behaviour and interaction with each other before we joined the main road again to complete the loop back towards our camp. It was going to be one of those days that we would remember forever.

With all of the excitement, we’d forgotten about our lunch stop. Peter reminded us, and soon found a glorious, shaded area back in the bush again and close to the dry riverbed. We finally felt safe and relaxed enough to alight from our vehicle whilst Peter prepared the snacks and drinks included in our game drive.

Today was going to be our lucky day, and within minutes, we were being joined by another herd of these desert-adapted elephants who had chosen our spot to enjoy their lunch too. As we quickly clambered aboard our vehicle, a huge matriarch quietly but purposefully positioned herself so close to us that we could feel her breath. We were all stunned to silence again, trying to anticipate her next move whilst she crunched away at the branches next to our vehicle before slipping back off into the undergrowth and rejoining her herd.

The game drive had successfully given us our reward, and we were four very happy people on our drive back to Malansrus as we regaled stories of what we’d seen and the memories we would share. Back at camp we were greeted, once again, by the happy band of workers who together made our stay at Malansrus so enjoyable.

More Information

Malansrus Tented Camp provides the ideal overnight facility for guests seeking the adventure of a tented camp without sacrificing luxury.

They also offer guided excursions to the rock carvings of Twyfelfontein, Burnt Mountain and the Organ Pipes. Along with the elephant drive, this can turn into a full day’s excursion, and at least two nights would be recommended.

A full list of Namibia Tracks & Trails camps can be found here.

Words, Video and Images: Frank Noon, Mark Hakansson and Sally Bowness