“This is your enemy,” our intrepid guide, Irwin, remarked in his opening welcome speech, hitting the small rock boulder on the dusty red ground next to his wonderfully weathered boots. “This is your friend,” he continued with a smile, raising a bamboo walking stick from a varied collection at his feet.

We didn’t quite understand it then, but they were soon to be friends indeed. There were four of us on our adventure. Already humbled by our experience of the wildlife, breathtaking landscapes, flora and fauna that Namibia offers, we were keen and excited to challenge ourselves - and our fitness levels - further on a trek into the wild. The Etendeka Hiking Trails in Damaraland, at the foothills of the Grootberg Massif on the edge of the Namib desert, promised to be a wilderness experience of a lifetime.

Conceived and run by Etendeka Lodge Company and Etendeka Community Trust, two or three-day treks are available for the more adventurous tourist. We opted for a three-day trek and joined a couple from France. Well-worn hiking boots, a hat and sunblock are essential, we read on our pre-trek information pack, plus reasonably good health, a positive and adventurous mindset, and a love of Namibia and every creature and geographical wonder it has to offer.

Other recommendations included head torches, binoculars, sunglasses and camera and filming equipment.

Our adventure began at 16:00 at the pick-up point at Palmwag Lodge, located on the Uniab River between the Skeleton Coast and Kaokoland. After a four-hour drive from Etosha National Park, we arrived early so we could swim, relax and prepare our luggage that was then handed over to our back-up driver who went ahead to our first destination, River Camp. Irwin provided daypacks for our hiking essentials, including water bottles.

After his opening remarks, we each chose our walking stick and listened attentively as he described our natural surroundings. The Mopane Tree, Irwin explained, had numerous properties and uses. Its plentiful leaves are used as a cure for stomach-ache, its strong bark for rope and the wood, which is very hard and termite resistant, for construction as well as for decorative purposes owing to its rich colour.

The Damara Milk-Bush surrounding us grows in rocky beds, riverbeds and plains and can grow up to 2.5 metre in height and consists of long grey stems. Although toxic, gemsbok and black rhino feed on the plant and use stems for removing ticks. Ostrich Salad can be a vital source of hydration as the small pods of the plant act as water sacs, while the leaves and seeds of the plant are rich in vitamins and minerals and a good source of food for goats and cows.

We also learned from Irwin that the elephant dung we could see occasionally on our route had numerous uses. It helps feed other animals and, rather surprisingly, baby elephants eat it to boost their immune system. Also inhaling the vapour from burning the dung helps heal headaches and dulls the pain of toothache. A fascinating educative start to our walk. 

As soon as we set off, we understood the need for our walking sticks. Boulder heavy, we had to keep our eyes on the ‘track’ as we followed Irwin and used our sticks to steady ourselves as we manoeuvred through the glorious rocky terrain, stopping occasionally to catch our breath, wonder at our heavenly tranquil surroundings and to catch the joyful sight of native birdlife including Martial Eagles, Goshawks and Lappet-faced Vultures.

We arrived in River Camp around three hours later, offered a choice of sundowners as a welcome and a chance to sit around a roaring Mopane wood fire to watch the sunset. We all thought this was a perfect end to an idyllic afternoon.

Our beds for the night were raised wooden sleeping platforms consisting of two single beds with bed rolls containing 100 per cent cotton linen sheets, a down duvet and pillows. We could opt to have the sides of the sleeping platform down so that we could sleep under the stars. We refreshed ourselves using the self-fill bucket showers offering plenty of solar powered hot water and returned to the fire pit for a delicious dinner of local meats and a lentil stew for the vegetarian among us. Watching the night sky and drifting off to sleep directly under a vast mass of stars and the milky way is an experience that will never be forgotten.

View a 360° virtual tour of Hill Camp and Etendeka Mountain Camp

After a plentiful breakfast consisting of eggs, bacon, cereals, yoghurt and fruit, we packed our travel snacks of fruit, nuts and raisins, filled our water bottles and set off just before 08:00. Irwin explained to us that the walk was 20 kilometre and would take around six to seven hours depending on our fitness levels.

Aiming to reach Hill Camp by early afternoon, the final ascent might be more challenging in the afternoon sun than the cool and comfortable start. Surrounded by rugged natural beauty, a landscape of flat-topped hills and a track strewn by boulders we edged towards our destination. We started to notice more and more unique rock formations and vibrant coloured crystals at our feet including agate, amethyst, clear and smoky quartz, unique to this region.

Walking along this bejewelled plateau we were also excited to spot Monteiro’s Hornbills and Rockrunners gliding in the sky above us. While the final ascent was a little tough in the heat, the spectacular view on arrival was worth every step. Set atop Crystal Mountain, the camp overlooks a breathtaking green and abundant valley as far as the eye can see. We sat in awe and silence blown away by this natural wonder.

After a wholesome lunch and siesta, we set off again for a short sundowner walk around the plateau and were lucky enough to see a large herd of zebras frolicking on the plains, ignoring our presence and cameras that were capturing their unfettered joy. Returning to the camp, weary but happy, we enjoyed another delicious meal with a choice of wine and very soon after all wandered onto our sleeping platforms, snuggled into our bed rolls and fell asleep listening to the nocturnal sounds of cicadas and crickets.

After another nutritious breakfast the next morning, our final walk took us around Crystal Mountain and down into the valley to Etendeka Mountain Camp where we said our grateful goodbyes to Irwin, handed back our much-loved walking sticks and backpacks and settled into our tented rooms for a well-earned rest, conscious our awe-inspiring wilderness adventure will be etched on our memories forever.

More Information

The Etendeka Overnight Hiking Trail Experience is set in the foothills of the Grootberg Massif, Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscape.

Find out more about overnight walking on the website, while there is more on Big Sky Lodges Collection here.

Words and Video/Images: Sally Bowness and Mark Hakansson