In the popular imagination of British travellers, Fiji appears as a single, palm-fringed tropical island, surrounded by turquoise waters and flooded with sunshine. While this is in many respects true – the palms, crystal clear waves and bright sun are all present and correct – the destination is also one of tremendous diversity and contrast.

An archipelago of 333 islands, around 100 of which are inhabited, in the South Pacific, the tourism offering ranges from the adventure and attractions of Viti Levu to the truly unspoilt – and virtually unreachable – outlying Lau. 

Whatever your destination almost all trips, however, begin at Nadi International Airport on the west coast of Viti Levu, home to the majority of commercial aviation and a hub for the wider tourism sector. Close by are numerous accommodation options focused on the pre- and post-trip market, essentially luxurious staging posts where guests spend a night or two before embarking on their holiday proper.

Having left my home in London on Friday evening, I was delighted to reach the Crowne Plaza Fiji Nadi Bay Resort & Spa on Sunday morning after two nights in the air. There is no way of getting around this distance for the UK-market, meaning many British guests will likely consider combining Fiji with a trip to either Australia, New Zealand or one of the other South Pacific islands, including Tonga, Samoa or Tuluva.

Nestled on Wailoaloa Beach, the newly-built – and, indeed, currently still being built – Crowne Plaza resort is a great place to sleep off the jetlag, offering an idyllic beachfront escape with convenient access to a myriad of exciting activities and local attractions. With long-haul aircraft gracefully gliding overhead, the feeling around the poolscape is bustling, but not busy, with quieter spots on offer for those who want a little more relaxation away from the family activities.

Crowne Plaza Fiji Nadi Bay is also home to a top-notch Italian restaurant, La Bottega, which uses locally sourced ingredients to recreate a Mediterranean experience in the South Pacific.

Each morning, the varied buffet breakfast offering includes a number of Chinese delicacies, illustrating the growing importance of this fast-recovering outbound market. While tourism in is Fiji still dominated by guests from Australian and New Zealand, arrivals are growing quickly, not only from China, but also Japan and elsewhere in Asia.

The properties in Nadi, while attractive in their own right, are however a mere aperitif to the outlying resorts on the islands surrounding the mainland. These are predominantly reached by vessels operated by South Sea Cruises which runs a well-oiled schedule of day trips and transfers from its base at Port Denarau.

My journey took me to the Yasawa Islands, a string of 20 or so specs of tropical greenery located near the north-west border of Fiji and boasting some of the best beaches on offer. A near three-hour trip across the calm waters brought me to Paradise Cove Resort nestled on the stunning Naukacuvu Island.

Owned by Nick Wood, the tech entrepreneur and founder of New Zealand-based ISP ihug, the location is the Fiji of popular imagination. Here you are surrounded by champagne sand and crystal-clear ocean, miles from civilisation.

On arrival, the larger South Sea Cruises vessel is met by half a dozen darting tenders, each of which rushes to unload luggage, wave farewell to departing guests and whisk arriving holidaymakers onto the island. The process is well-rehearsed and smooth, with my toes crunching through the sand in a matter of moments.

A small reception orientates new arrivals over a tropical cocktail while luggage is discreetly couriered to 40 or so lodgings. These range from the smaller lodge rooms and garden bungalows – perfect for backpackers looking for a little taste of luxury – right up to a Paradise Suite, which offers a private plunge pool and hanging day beds.

During my stay, I took a Beachfront Villa situated steps from the sea. With luxurious traditional designs and modern features, it included a private balcony with a daybed, beachside sun loungers and sun hut for shade, air conditioning, in-room Wi-Fi, movie channels and a mini-bar stocked on arrival. An outdoor shower completes the look.

While a sense of calm pervades Paradise Cove, at least away from the main pool, that is not to say there is nothing to do. Activities are presented each day on a chalk board and take in everything from yoga, through to scuba driving or snorkelling, hiking on a nearby island, paddleboarding and cookery classes – guests simply choose as much, or as little, as they like.

Also on offer is a chance to create cultural connections with the local village, explore the amazing reefs, snorkel with giant manta rays or try some big game fishing. The Padi dive shop can show guests some great sites, including swim through caves and wreck dives. There is also a spa offering a full range of treatments – which is a must visit – while a central bar remains open until the “last customer sleeps beside it”.

On the culinary side, Paradise Cove excels, belying its isolated location to present dining options the envy of many mainland resorts. The restaurant, Blackrock, utilises all that the land has to offer, using local ingredients, bought directly from local farmers to which chefs add mainland produce to present healthy, fresh meals. The kokoda - similar to a ceviche, but with less citrus and more coconut - is delicious and a gem of Fijian cuisine.

The real magic, however, takes place at Donu, which offers a fusion of local Fijian ingredients and Japanese technique to create a unique omakase dining experience. With tables and seats around an outdoor Japanese kitchen, guests can watch their meals come to life while sipping Japanese cocktails, beers and sake. Each night chefs - Fijians trained in Japan - present a small plate dinner menu consisting of vegetables that are in season, a variety of raw and cooked seafood, salad, sashimi, nigiri, tempura, yakatori and noodles. I enjoyed 14 courses during my visit – each better than the last. The logistics are mind-boggling and the results out-of-this-world.

Given the location, the variety of beverages on offer at Paradise Cove is also surprising. There are a dozen wines on the menu, cocktails and beers, both international and local. Those who have been to other ‘paradise’ destinations – the Maldives being the prime example, but also Mauritius and some of the smaller, more remote Caribbean Islands – will also be pleasantly surprised by the prices. Cocktails are a little over £5, while a glass of Chilean chardonnay starts at £4 – much less than you would expect when you have the views over the Pacific that Paradise Cove can offer.

Those looking to avoid pre- and post-holiday accommodation in Nadi can take a heli-transfer to Paradise Cove, which can depart to a personalised schedule. Not only is this the most glamorous way to travel, but it can also make it possible to connect directly with flights from the international airport which might not fit with the South Sea Cruises timetable.

There is much to love about Paradise Cove – but all too soon it was back to Viti Levu for the next stage of my Fijian adventure.

More Information

Located in the heart of the South Pacific, Fiji is home to 333 of the happiest islands in the world. From its crystal-clear azure waters for breathtaking diving experiences to miles of pristine beaches for casting away your cares, Fiji has something for any traveller searching for an ultimate vacation experience.

Fiji was recognised with the titles of Oceania’s Leading Adventure Tourism Destination and Oceania’s Leading Tourist Board at the World Travel Awards earlier this year.

Find out more on the official website.

Chris O’Toole