It’s fair to say opinions on visiting Los Angeles are mixed.

For many, the sun-soaked city is an epicentre for creativity and glamour, thriving on diversity and opportunity. Known for its iconic palm tree-lined streets, world-famous entertainment industry and year-round sunny weather, the City of Angels offers a dynamic mix of cultures and lifestyles.

From the glamour of Hollywood to the serene beaches of Santa Monica, there is something for everyone.

On the other side of the scales, Los Angeles can be a challenging place to live. There is a perception the city is covered in a thick haze of pollution year-round, while the notorious traffic and long commutes make gridlock a daily frustration for many.

The sprawling nature of LA can make it feel disconnected, while the high cost of living, especially housing, puts immense pressure on people trying to make ends meet. Not for nothing is Los Angeles home to Skid Row, one of largest stable populations of homeless people in the United States.

While it’s a travel cliché to say a destination is a mixture of attributes – this has never been truer than in Los Angeles. You can live all possible lives here – depending on your budget.

Landing at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) for a one-night stopover visit, I had the chance to see for myself. I was determined to see as much of the city as possible during my 30-hours and to gauge which of these competing visions held the most validity.

My method of choice? The ever-reliable cycle tour, in this case offered by Bikes & Hikes, the number one provider of eco-friendly, outdoor trips in Los Angeles. The company sells daily public tours, bespoke private trips and a dynamic selection of group and corporate options – 365 days a year.

Given my limited time, I opted to try LA in a Day, which encompasses everything from West Hollywood and Beverly Hills, right down through Brentwood, Santa Monica and Venice Beach.

Meeting my guide at Bikes & Hikes’ location on the iconic Santa Monica Boulevard, we set off on the 38-mile roundtrip. While the distance might sound daunting, the electric-aided bicycles make the journey a breeze for even those who spend limited time in the saddle.

The start of the route does indeed include a number of hills, as we make our way up into Bel Air, but with the click of a button I am cruising up narrow pathways among manicured lawns, tall security gates and blacked-out luxury vehicles. The air is clear, the views stunning and the roads quiet – nothing at all like one anticipates Los Angeles to be.

Stops on this part of the tour include the current and former residences of numerous celebrities, while there are views over the Century City neighbourhood in the distance, home to Nakatomi Tower, made famous by Bruce Willis in 80s classic Die Hard. Also in the area is the famed Greystone Mansion, featured in more films, television shows and music videos than you can shake a stick at, and home to a sordid past your guide will be delighted to tell you more about.

Apparently a lot of the Hollywood elite have decamped to Calabasas these days, a city a little to the north-west of Los Angeles-proper, and they have been replaced by tech entrepreneurs. While this means you’re less likely to spot a celebrity in the flesh, glimpses of the old glamour remain, especially around the Beverly Hills Hotel, now part of the Dorchester Collection. Those with a taste for luxury – and a few dollars to spare – can duck into the Polo Lounge for a taste of the iconic Hollywood lifestyle.

My tour - brilliantly guided by a classic Hollywood actor-cum-comedienne-cum-futures-trader - took me down toward the beaches of Santa Monica to meet up with the Marvin Braude Bike Trail. The 22-mile paved route runs from the Pacific Palisades, through Santa Monica beach and south to Torrance, offering some great views along the coastal parts of the city.

While a bike path is the last thing you might expect in Los Angeles, they have been springing up across the region over the past few years as the city works to make itself more attractive to those on two wheels. While there is a way to go – I only saw a handful of other cyclists during my six hours – the roads do feel relatively safe. Traffic moves slowly, even drifting somewhat deferentially out of the way on occasion – with drivers perhaps shocked to see a cyclist for the first time!

Pacific Avenue takes us through Venice Beach – home to actual canals and with a great backstory to tell – past Muscle Beach and on toward Marina Del Ray. The narrow streets, pedestrianised seafront, cooling breeze and casual lifestyle is again a world-away from what many expect Los Angeles to be.

The highlight of the journey for me was the ride back into town along the Ballona Creek, a near ten-mile-long watershed which flows through Culver City before emptying into the Santa Monica Bay. Partially surrounded by wetlands, it’s positively bucolic in places, and it’s great to feel the wind in my hair as we wiz along the towpath letting the electric bikes take the strain.

Through Culver City – newly revitalised with cash from Amazon, Apple and others who are pouring money into streaming services produced here – and the tour comes to an end back where it started on Santa Monica Boulevard.

It’s a real eye-opening experience and gives a whole new perspective on what Los Angeles can be like. Though, of course, not everybody can live in Venice Beach, where properties start at $2 million for a modest bungalow, a cycle tour does also reveal Los Angeles is not the urban desert some believe it to be. There is much to see – and much that has to be seen to be believed.

A great place to rest after the tour and stay close to the action is Mama Shelter Los Angeles Hollywood, a short walk from Hollywood and Vine. The area has been known for decades for its concentration of radio and movie-related locations and continues to attract visitors from around the world.

Designed by Thierry Gaugain to honour the beauty of the Californian landscape, the property features five floors of uniquely decorated rooms, each offering guests a cozy haven. There are 70-rooms in total, each offering king-size beds decked out in five-star linen fit for a movie star.

A rooftop restaurant offers a range of signature cocktails and homemade local dishes, all set to music. There are views over the iconic Hollywood sign in the hazy distance – making the trip well worth it for those with a limited amount of time like me. I snapped the obligatory picture while enjoying suitably self-important can of Paperback Brewing Co. Super Fun! Hazy Hop! and was delighted to have ticked this iconic location off my bucket list.

Downstairs, the bar and restaurant are thriving from early evening onwards – and it might be fairer to say Mama Shelter is more of a party destination with rooms than a hotel-proper. Certainly many of the guests have come for a good time, not to stay the night!

The property is just a few hundred metres from the Hollywood Walk of Fame – surely one of the most underwhelming tourist attractions in the world? A seemingly endless list of long-forgotten stars fading on the floor, but swamped by visitors, nonetheless. Only in LA!

More Information

Find out more about visiting the City of Angels on the official Los Angeles Tourism & Convention Board website.

The organisation works improve the quality of life for all Angelenos through the economic and community benefits of tourism. Representing over 1,000 local tourism-related businesses, Los Angeles Tourism is a non-profit organisation responsible for promoting the City of Angels as one of the premier travel destinations.

Through its global brand marketing and sales efforts, Los Angeles Tourism works to inspire visitors to immerse themselves in the kinds of unscripted moments and meaningful experiences that can only happen in LA.

Chris O’Toole