They say there are many kinds of gold in Denver. The precious metal that led the first pioneers to the mountains of Colorado, the liquid gold of the beer made from the clean spring water (Coors, most famously), and the shimmering gold autumn leaves of the quaking aspen.

Fall is a wonderful time to visit Mile High City, with cooler but still clement weather and a palette of vibrant yellows, oranges and golds against the blue sky. The yellow light slices through the tall buildings, while bright sunflowers grow from the sides of the pavement.

Spectacular landscapes encompass the city - plains, mountains, small towns like Evergreen with wooden sidewalks, stunning lakes, endless pines and those golden aspens.

Landing in Denver International Airport I hadn’t quite taken seriously the actual altitude until I saw someone collapse in the line from security.

There is 17 per cent less oxygen than I am used to, living at sea level. And, going up into the Rockies, the altitude is doubled. I was lucky not to suffer too badly by keeping hydrated and even managed a short hike with Aspire Tours in the Rocky Mountain National Park, taking in the elevated, sublime mountain views that were metaphorically - and literally - breathtaking.

The air seemed so clear and fresh, the horizons mirrored in the clear mountain lakes. I spotted elk, mule deer, Northern grey squirrels and circling birds of prey. Adventure tourists will not be disappointed with an array of trails for hiking and cycling, plus climbing, watersports, and skiing in the winter months. Or there are numerous gentler tours available if that’s more your pace.

Not to be missed are the otherworldly sandstone forms of the Red Rocks - a natural amphitheatre that can be visited during the day for free or at night to see the array of musical artists playing using the natural acoustics.

Denver itself is a palimpsest of the different layers of history it has borne witness to - from the prospectors and pioneers of the gold rush that built the city, the boom and bust of different eras including the devastating dust bowl - something that is explored vividly in the exhibition ‘100 Objects’ at the History Colorado Centre. By taking personal objects from inhabitants both famous and ordinary, from the 18th century to the present day, a vivid patchwork of history emerges from the individual stories.

The railroad has formed a key part of the city’s history, and the sound of the trains forms a bedrock of the urban ambience - evoking a sense of escape and adventure. The trains bring you right into the faded ghost signs on the old warehouses in the LoDo district around the Grand Union Station - a stately building worth a visit in itself. It has Amtrak services heading to Chicago, San Francisco and more. The station and the surrounding historic buildings now house a fabulous selection of bars and eateries.

It would be remiss not to mention the darker histories of the city - such as those of the original Native American inhabitants impacted by Denver’s construction and expansion: their displacement, slaughter and erasure over the years. ‘The Sand Creek Massacre: The Betrayal that Changed Cheyenne and Arapaho People Forever’, another exhibition at the Colorado History Centre, is a sobering insight into a history that needs to be told and retold. It is also a poignant experience viewing Native American artefacts at the Denver Art Museum, objects heavy with history.

Something I haven’t seen in other destinations was the Denver Public Art Program. Established in 1988 the executive order directs that one per cent of any capital improvement project over $1 million undertaken by the city, be set aside for the inclusion of art. And art is abundant in the city, from sculpture in the parks and the peaceful spaces within the galleries themselves - particular highlights being the incredible Clyfford Still MuseumMuseum of Contemporary Art.

When you need refreshment from all that culture, Leven Deli is a great spot in that district with the most incredible sandwiches. But There are also artworks everywhere on the streets to be enjoyed by everyone: sculpture, murals, projections to name a few.

The River North Art District (or RiNo) has a wealth of street art and while I was there hosted the mural festival Denver walls. As well as murals, there was some incredible projection mapping - where moving image artists such as Denver’s own waveform.exp made custom artwork that interacted with the paintings themselves in surprising ways. The district itself has a wealth of unique bars, food spots and independent shops including Denver Central Market - a historic building brimming with a variety of local vendors.

The urban centre has that American charm that is exotic to Europeans. Vast open space, wide streets, larger than life buildings, crosswalks, cars and parking lots that are everywhere. But there is something else that takes a lot longer to sink in; there’s much less advertising than many other cities. But again, what you do see is public art. Light Nights Denver is a rolling series of curated projections on the Daniels Fisher Tower in the Theatre District. Ten high end projectors cover the 300ft canvas that plays host to a series of local and international artists. Founder David Moake has used the funding from the percentage of advertising allocated to downtown spaces to create a stunning visual landmark - a beacon for the city of creativity.

Although the destination has similar problems typical to urban spaces, including an unfortunate rise in the unhoused population, there is a lot of civic space - historical parks, second capital with many civic buildings. There is infrastructure in place that is not just for cars - such as the Cherry Creek and Platt River trails that cut through the city, frequented by cyclists, pedestrians, joggers and electric scooters, though like in most American cities it is an oddity to walk longer distances.

Public transport is decent - buses, trains from the airport, light rail and such. This idea of having things for the public good rather than merely private profit seems a long way away; somewhat quaint and old fashioned, particularly in a country - and indeed a wider world - that seeks to sow division rather than construction.

In disruptive times, we need this sort of civic infrastructure - even in small steps - to build pleasant, well-functioning, safe destinations not only for attracting business and tourists but for the inhabitants at every income level who keep places alive.

As I leave for the airport on the train the city appears like a hazy mirage in the foothills of the distant mountains - everything gold in the last of the light. When I was asking about tips for visiting Denver, someone responded that It’s ‘just’ a regular American city. Maybe so in some ways - but that’s no bad thing. It encapsulates a lot of what has made America, in all its fascinating, multi-faceted complexity.

Words and images: Sapphire Goss