If there’s a centre for tourism in Fiji, it’s Denarau, 850-acres of partially reclaimed land a 15-minute drive from Nadi International Airport on Viti Levu. Set among landscaped tropical gardens, what is essentially a gated community separated from the destination-proper by a babbling brook is home to an 18-hole golf course, shopping centre and supermarket, as well as residential opportunities for well-heeled locals.

Dotted throughout the walkable island are a range of cafes and restaurants, as well as a variety of shops and boutiques, all perfect for guests looking to decompress after landing from around the world.

Denarau forms a small part of the Fijian tourism capital, Nadi, and is distinct from the political capital, Suva, situated on the east of Viti Levu, which receives over 300-days of rain a year. Nadi, on the west of the island, basks in a much more agreeable climate, warm year-round, barring the occasional hurricane between November and April.

One of the nine properties in Denarau, Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort offers guests a warm welcome from the moment you walk into the recently revitalised lobby. Within moments I had a glass of champagne in my hand - on offer, complimentary, all-day, every day - with the close-by Community Table offering a rotating range of delicious treats and insight into local culinary traditions.

Also on hand, the Fiji Airways lounge gives guests a place to freshen up if they arrive before their rooms are ready, while on departure, travellers can check-in for flights ahead of time, with bags whisked away to the airport, gaining another hour or two at the resort.

The locally-owned hotel is a great base from which to explore Fiji, either for a few days before heading out to island resorts, or as a destination in its own right. There are spaces to accommodate a variety of groups, with the main pool alive with the laughter of children, while adult guests looking for a little more seclusion will find nooks for quiet relaxation just a little along the beach.

Guests also have the opportunity to dive into the cooler, refreshing pools of Sheraton Denarau Villas next door, which are a haven of serenity. 

Though the 300-room property was among the first to open in Denarau, the majority of the rooms and public spaces were refreshed during the pandemic downtime and today sparkle as new. This development is set to continue into 2025, with work on more adults-only accommodation planned. With occupancy also back to pre-Covid levels, there is a real sense of confidence in the future of the market.

Elsewhere, there is a chance to play a spot of tennis, take part in a range of complimentary water sports, or even till the soil at a five-acre on-site farm which grows herbs, vegetables and more for the plates of guests. The location can also host rustic evening suppers for small groups. On the culinary side, Tatavu Grill & Bar is a top spot, welcoming guests for a relaxed breakfast soundtracked by the gently lapping waves.

For the MICE market, Sheraton Fiji can weave a personalised experience into celebrations or corporate gatherings with a range of flexible spaces, including the Denarau Island Convention Centre, which recently welcomed 3,000+ delegates from the Asia Development Bank. While you might not expect much business travel in Fiji, we must have meetings, even in paradise!

Yvo van Dijk, general manager of Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort, explains: “Over the last few years, Fiji has been able to enhance its strong position as a destination of choice for Australian and New Zealand-based guests. Many might be visiting for the first time, before returning either to the same resort, or to take in some of the opportunities on the island destinations.

“At the same time, we are working to grow our source markets, with the new Fiji Airways flight to Dallas a good example of this. This brings the west coast of the United States closer to Fiji and opens up new possibilities for us to bring guests here to the resort,” he adds.

US-based guests also tend to travel during the northern hemisphere winter from November onward, complementing guests from Australia and New Zealand, who arrive during the peak season from May to September.

This popularity among both established and emerging markets is reflected in changing booking windows. While British guests might book six months in advance, it is more common for Australian visitors to reserve a room as little as 30-days before arrival. British travellers – like me – might consider Fiji to be something of a ‘once-in-a-lifetime,’ but it’s closer to a long weekend break for those flying out of east coast Australian hotspots.

Close by, Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa presents similar opportunities.

The five-star retreat perches on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, surrounded by the beauty and culture of Fiji, polished with a touch of French elegance. The property is home to Waitui Bar & Grill, an adults’ only poolside dining experience, Suki, a vibrant beach rum bar, and Sous, a Mediterranean seafood restaurant – all are well worth a look. Later in the evening, Republik offers a chance to socialise and dance the night away.

The property is considered Fiji’s Leading Resort by voters at the World Travel Awards.

Away from the residences, resorts and restaurants, Denarau is home to a port and marina, the latter offering the chance to daydream about starting a new life as the owner of a magnificent superyacht.

More realistically, the port is the base for those looking to explore the beautiful Mamanuca or Yasawa islands, with South Sea Cruises and others offering regular transfers to various destinations for locals and tourists alike.

Those with a couple of days and a sense of adventure can enjoy Matamanoa Island Resort, which is a little over an hour by catamaran outside of Denarau in the Mamanucas.

Situated on a volcanic cone jutting out of the azure waters, this is something of a marine sanctuary. Clad with native bush and palm trees, the brilliance of the vegetation contrasts with the white curved sandy beaches and coral reefs.

Matamanoa is centred around the deep, cool pool overlooking the Pacific Ocean, with a single restaurant offering some wonderful sunset photo opportunities. Adults-only, there is a sense of calm which is not always present at some of the Viti Levu-based resorts. During my visit, I spent hours dipping into the refreshing waters, without a care in the world.

Matamanoa is more ‘Fijian’ than some of more international brands. The Garden Rooms, while far from Spartan, have a bucolic feel, with ceilings decorated with tapa, a barkcloth made locally, and hand carved mahogany headboards. Indigenous hibiscus flowers are liberally dotted around for a flash of colour, while each of the 47-rooms is named in honour local flora or fauna.

This local culture extends across the property. Fijians love to sing, so be prepared to be serenaded. On arrival. On departure. Over dinner. For a special occasion. There are few moments not accompanied by song, which can make for some memorable moments. It is also commonplace to announce arrivals and departures with the banging of drums, or wooden bells, to be prepared to be the centre of attention once you step out of the boat.

During my visit, I took the chance to snorkel in the beautiful Pacific Ocean, which was a hugely rewarding experience. Many dive sites offer views over tropical coral, and the marine life close to Matamanoa is excellent, with parrotfish, butterflyfish and clownfish (similar to Nemo) all visible, along with a green sea turtles, one of which swam leisurely past during my trip.

Spa Matamanoa is also something of a treasure, perched at one of the highest points on the island, overlooking the crashing waves below. Treatments take place in two cabins, open to the sea air sweeping in off the Pacific. Here certified therapists offer a full range of spa and what Matamanoa terms ‘sea to skin’ experiences, many of which use Nama (sea grapes), a unique species of seaweed that is organically grown and harvested from the pristine waters of the Yasawas, as a key ingredient.

Much, then, to love about the Mamanuca Islands and Matamanoa.

More Information

Located in the heart of the South Pacific, Fiji is home to 333 of the happiest islands in the world. From its crystal-clear azure waters for breathtaking diving experiences to miles of pristine beaches for casting away your cares, Fiji has something for any traveller searching for an ultimate vacation experience.

Fiji was recognised with the titles of Oceania’s Leading Adventure Tourism Destination and Oceania’s Leading Tourist Board at the World Travel Awards earlier this year.

Find out more on the official website.

Chris O’Toole